Alpe d' Huez

Every serious cyclist dreams of riding the classic Tour de France stage that starts in Modane, France and proceeds to climb the Col de Telegraph, Col de Galibier, and finally finishes with a steep climb to the ski village of Alpe d' Huez.

This stage was made famoud by Lance Armstrong's famous stage victory.  He had feigned fatigue all day and given his main rival Jan Ullrich false confidence that he would beat Armstrong in this crucial stage.  But on arrival at the base of the Alpe d'Huez Armstrong sheds his ploy and savagely attacks, creating one of the most iconic moments in cycling history "the look."  As he charged up the mountain he turned to stare at Jan, his main rival, and then furiously accelerated forward.  He won the stage and then went on to claim his third Tour de France victory.



With such a rich history and living only a three and a half hour drive away I knew I had to do it.  So when fellow math teacher Tom Copeland told me he was meeting some friends to do the ride on 23 July and invited me along I took him up on the offer.  My buddy, Ian Nelson, was visiting and since he is an avid rider joined us on the adventure as well.  So the three of us with our three bikes stuffed ourselves in the Green Gremlin, my beloved automobile, and drove over to St. Michal's where the stage starts.

The Green Gremlin

We spent the night in a nice little hotel.  The bed squeaked horribly so we put the mattress on the floor.  As part of our stay at the hotel we went to its companion restaurant the San Marco.  We had a nice meal upon which Ian commented that the French had a leg up on the Swiss with food.  You learn quickly that Swiss cuisine is not that great, unless you like bread and cheese cooked 10 different ways. 

So we got up the next morning met up with three of Tom’s friends, Steve-O, Jamie, and Simon.  They were on their fourth and last day of tour stages.  They were looking worked over.  Jamie had hurt his knee and had to walk his bike 5 km the day before.  Simon was also fatigued and definitely was hurting.  I left the car at the hotel and we were off.

Leaving St. Michal

The first climb is up the Col de Telegraph.  It was pleasant enough.  14km long and never more than an 8% grade.  My goal for the day was to never get passed and beat the group up each climb.  Judging by Tom’s group losing to any of them wasn’t going to be an issue.  They were super tired and seemed more bent on surviving the day then riding hard.  Ian proved to be another matter.  He kept with me the entire time and I thought he might challenge me for the top. 

At the beginning I was riding slow and an old man (but very fit) blew by me.  So my first challenge was set.  After going easy I picked up the pace 5km from the top with the old man in sight.  I quickly dispatched him a km later.  Ian was riding well so I turned it up a bit and managed to gun it to the top ahead of him.  He was taking it easy knowing the long day ahead and went down without really a fight.

Col de Telegraph

After a short descent we started the long 20 km climb up the Galibier.  This proved to be one of the most amazing sections of riding that I have ever done.  It is basically a long ascent up a valley that then snakes up the side of a mountain and crosses the Col at over 2600 meters (or about 10000 feet.)  Stunning is the only way I could describe most of the landscape.  It was a treat to ride there.  This route may be the most popular bike route in the world.  There was literally hundreds of cyclist out riding that day.  It was so cool to see so many people out on bikes.  There was everything from super fit young monster biking, to older heavier weighted men and women out to test their mettle. 

Nelson and I at top.

Tom’s team had passed us while Ian and I enjoyed a tea on the top of the Telegraph.  We caught up with them 10km into the climb.  We all road together for a while.  I have really started to like group rides after years of being a more solo rider.  Even if it is a slower group it is nice to have people to share the experience with.    Towards the top though Ian and I cranked up the pace and left the group behind.  Ian was looking strong and at the 2km mark I attacked.  I was lucky because the 2km must have actually been the 1 km mark so while Ian was waiting to make his move the climb ended.  It was beautiful up top.  You could even see Mont Blanc in the distance. 

Brit group going up Galiblier

Since we weren’t too far ahead we waited for Tom and his crew.  They arrived about 20 minutes later.  Even though it was summer the top of the Col was absolutely freezing.  We put on our jackets and did the monster descent down.  I feel that I am pretty aggressive on the descents but coming off the Galibier was an experience.  Many hairpin turns on a one and a half lane bumpy road with death falls if you went off.  Combined with a cold that made my hands near numb and you had a pretty hairy descent.  I had my hands locked in a death grip on my brakes for nearly the entire time. 

Taking a break from the descent for a picture.

You go down about 10 km to another Col and the worst is over.  Then it continues downhill for about another 15 km with some flats and small hills.  There are a few freaky tunnels that you go through.  Nothing like racing through a tunnel and hardly being able to see from your sun adjusted eyes.  The road didn’t have too much traffic on it but there was enough that cars would zoom by your occasionally.  Unlike in the States the European driver’s are good about dealing with bikes and give you plenty of room as they pass.  Though there were a few instances of having a car pass shockingly close to you.

Day 2 picture

So after all of this we arrived at the base of the Alpe d’Huez.  The famous, legendary, climb of the Tour de France.  We all met up there and ate a bit.  Steve-O and Simon’s wives were there in cars and plans were made to meet up after the ride finished at the top.  So off we went.  Steve-O, Janie, Tom and Simon took off first while Ian and I were eating.  The Alpe d’Huez most famous feature is its 21 hairpin curves.  Each one has a sign with its number and the name of a winner of that stage.  The first turn #21 had the original 1952 winner (I forget who) and Lance Armstrong the 22^nd winner.

Ian climbing

It was warm at the start of the climb were it was the steepest.  I had not filled up my water bottle so I was battling dehydration.  The hairpins are both good and bad.  It is demoralizing to see that you are only at turn number 17, but it does break the climb up into sections.  Generally at each turn the climb eases a bit and it also allows for some rest.  I didn’t feel that I was moving very fast but just tried to keep a steady pace.  About half way up I caught up with Jamie.  I chatted for a few moments with him and then continued on my way.  Just a little later I caught up with Tom.  I rode next to him and asked him how he was doing.  He then replied with the quote of the trip, “It’s killing me.”  Is all that he said.  Figuring that was the end of the that conversation I continued on. 

Tom, not dead yet.

I always know when I am getting really thirsty because I always contemplate drinking from the streams that always run by these mountain roads.  Sure enough there was a small brook that cascaded down the road.  As my thirst grew I was ready to jump off the bike and start drinking right from the stream.  I fought the urge, praying that there would be a water source.  Miraculously there was.  As I entered the lower town of Huez, not to be confused with Alpe ‘d Huez, there was a bathroom and it had a sign that said “eau potable.”  I raced in filled up my water bottle, downed it in about 2 seconds, filled it up again, downed it nearly as fast, then had a third bottle.  I filled it one last time and off I went.

The Brit crew.

Right before I had stopped I had spied the red jersey of Simon.  I had lost a little time on him but he gave me a goal to reach.  The top of the climb was less steep but I was tired and there was a fierce headwind that seemed to as be blowing into me, no matter which way I rode.  A few times I tried to accelerate and push my pace, but the legs weren’t having it so I plodded along as best I could.  Right at the village I caught up with Simon.  He and I rode to the top were the finish is, an anticlimactic sign right before the ski lift parking lot.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that there was a curve number 0, so in fact there are 22 curves.  French math at its best. 

The top!

I reached the top and felt very relieved.  It had been a long day and I was ready to be off the bike.  Ian appeared quickly after I finished and then about 20 minutes later Tom made it.  He had survived and his dire prognostication had not become true.  We ate some biscuits and took some pictures and that was it.  Tom and the other Brits drove off to Grenoble.  Ian and I had booked a small hotel in Huez and stayed the night there.  We then biked back to the car in St. Michal going over the Col de Croix de Fer, another long hill climb.  It was a great two days and potentially the highlight trip of my summer.

The adventures continue.